Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers to Haast

We left Okarito early Saturday afternoon enjoying the drive through to Franz Josef past Lake Mapourika. We had last walked to the Glacier in 2004, having only visited Fox Glacier, not Franz Josef, when we were down 6 years ago. 

In search of a glacier!

It's  about a 1.5 hour return walk from the carpark which was very busy - a longer walk than it used to be as we were stunned to see how much the glacier has receded in those 15 years. 

It's all the way up there!

They have several signs along the way showing you where the glacier used to come to and it's pretty clear that in a few more years there will be nothing to see at all!

Shock-horror!

This is so devastating and just one of the tragedies resulting from global warming.

Pretty blue tinges enhance the white glacial ice but a large patch of bare rock right in the middle of the glacier does nothing for the picture with the hot sun making it feel even more alarming.

It was here when we last were!

The walk itself encapsulates nature however with the little stream crossings, stones, boulders and the concrete coloured water flowing down the river from the glacier.

Picturesque Peter's Pool.

After returning from the glacier viewpoint we did the nice little 25 minute return walk through the bush to Peters Pool which is a Kettle Lake created by a large boulder falling as the glacier melted, leaving a depression which subsequently filled with water. It was named after a 9 year old who used to camp there.

Our camp spot for the night was at the Franz Josef MNZCA  park, a great spot being surrounded by trees and a very close walk into the village. There were about 12 vans there for the night, one bus couple also coming from Whakatane.
We enjoyed walking out for dinner to the wordy King Tiger Eastern Eating House, both of us choosing well with an Indian curry for Len and a Thai curry for me.

Fox Glacier was our destination for today but we decided to visit Lake Matheson again on our way. Everyone else had evidently decided the same thing as the too-small carpark was packed and we had to drive round and round it multiple times before finding a spot. It was tempting to just leave and drive on. However it is a pretty walk up and down and around the lake with good viewing points.

T by the  lake!

Again, there was a ripple on the lake and we didn't get the amazing reflections that you see on a lot of calendars but still enjoyed the walk.

The drive into the Fox Glacier carpark was different to what we remembered, probably because, like Franz Josef glacier, it has also receded hugely, even since we were there 6 years ago.

This was glacier when we were here last.

They have built up the roadway so you see a lovely turquoise long pool on the left side and the river bed with it's grey water on the right before arriving at the carpark.

One of the many steam crossings. 

Another hot day and some steep bits on this "easy 1.3 hour" walk with some little stream crossings over boulders.

Couldn't walk past this point last time. 

We saw quite a few people really struggling especially on the last steep rise before the view point. Just like Franz Josef there will be no glacier to see in a few more years - quite devastating.
It was getting quite late in the day but we kept to our plan of driving to Haast after leaving Fox Glacier, passing Bruce Bay with the usual abundance of logs and driftwood lining the beach, a few houses on the other side of the road and a mobile coffee van.

Bruce's Bay. 

 We could have camped at the Lake Paringa DOC camp but the reviews weren't great and we knew there would be lots of mosquitos so we carried on past the scenic Lake Moeraki on the left to the Knight's Point Lookout carpark where we just went in and out as we could see the view from the bus as well as everyone batting at the mozzies!

There are 2 good short walks at Ship's Creek but having done these last time we carried on to the Santana POP in Haast, feeling very lucky to get a spot as they only allow 5 vehicles.

Relaxed now, but wait til the mossies come out!

Two caravans were already parked and 2 arrived just in front of us. Payment is by donation to St John's.  The night was quiet except inside our bus where mainly Len had a frenzied time, while we were trying to play scrabble, slapping at all the mosquitoes flying around his head. We figured out they were getting through the tiny gap in the overhead vent so once we closed that and resorted to some spray we finally slaughtered the last one about midnight, not being disturbed by any in our ears whilst trying to sleep. So the battle was won!