Ahipara

By Tuesday we seemed to be right in the middle of the storm and by the time we had walked back to the RSA from town where I bought a hot water bottle for times when we are not at a campground and can't use our heater, the rain was coming in sideways. We had had a cold night with the temperature going down to 3 degrees so despite just having bought a hot water bottle it seemed a good time to drive slowly in the strong winds out to Ahipara Holiday Park. It looks a little campground when you drive in until you explore further and find that they have a huge paddock out the back for campers. I imagine they are very busy over summer - at the moment there is just one tent up, just across the drive from us with an obviously very hardy man, not young, sleeping in it. For a Holiday Park it is quite busy for this time of the year with a few young, mainly German tourists coming and going and quite a few surfers in the cabins, having heard about the good surf coming in.

Bottom of Ninety Mile Beach, Ahipara in background

Tuesday night was very wild with rain and strong winds buffetting the bus. We had been advised to park away from the pine trees to avoid both the cones and trees falling on top of us - a bit scary at times but by morning we were still standing on all 6 wheels and the wind had subsided. There was even sunshine. We were only going to stay for 2 nights but after playing golf again on Wednesday - I played better this time - and it being suggested to us by other players that we stay to play in the 2 day tournament this weekend we are going to do that. It will be nice to stay in one spot for a few days and it makes economical sense. Instead of paying $30.60 a night at the camp we can stay for a whole week at the winter rate of $103 so we will stay until Monday for 6 nights at the weekly rate. Also the golf at the weekend is a bargain at $20 each for the 2 days whereas our normal green fees are $30 each. Plus by entering the tournament we have a chance of winning a prize!

It's nice to be at the camp ground and plug the heater in while we are having these cold nights. I also make the most of using the camp stove instead of our own gas and have made a batch of scones (some go in the freezer), a fruit cake with added rum so it keeps, and a big pot of pumpkin soup - yum!! (of which I also manage to squeeze some in our little freezer - icecream starvation for Len for a wee while!) The washing is all up-to- date now as well.

A crowd gathers in anticipation of some action!

Today, Thursday, we have parked by the beach on the Foreshore Road, and as soon as the shower of rain stopped Len has cast his rod into the busy surf by the rocks while I write some emails and do this blog. I can see him on the beach and he has already caught a kahawai - the steak I took out the freezer will have to wait until tomorrow now! Methinks I might do a fish curry again as we enjoyed that last time!

Kaitaia & Ahipara

After bacon and eggs for breakfast on Sunday Sue and Pete set off back to Tauranga with time up their sleeves for stopping to see family in Kerikeri. The sun was shining again and Len and I had a nice walk down the beach at Taupo Bay and through the settlement before heading to Whangaroa golf course which we had previously played on the Friday. We thought we might have another round but by the time we got there the ominous black clouds overhead were already unleashing their raindrops and so after a coffee we retraced our steps to head north again stopping at Mangonui where Len joined 2-3 others for a spot of fishing off the wharf which we had been told would be as good as anywhere. However there was nary a bite so I wandered down to the renowned fresh fish shop on the harbours edge for some delicious blue cod and chips, not being sure whether it was a late lunch or an early dinner but entertained as I waited for them to be cooked by the fearless shag (cormorant) which kept coming into the shop to see if his order was ready!

L,T,P&S say goodbye to Taupo Bay

By the time we got to Coopers Beach where we expected to harvest some tuatua for our supper the tide wasn't really low enough but we ventured out with our bucket as far as we could with our shorts on, me being especially pleased when I pulled up 3 almost immediately. However that was it, despite getting wet to the waist with the warm low-rolling surf! I almost wished I had had a proper swim instead. So after some time spent doing the tuatua twist there was no alternative other than returning the little catch to the sea and continuing on our way to Kaitaia.

Kaitaia, with a population of just over 5,000 is the northernmost town in NZ, being on the west coast just 14 km from the rugged little beach settlement of Ahipara which is at the southern end of Ninety Mile Beach. We stayed 2 nights there in the RSA carpark, the first night going in for a beer and chatting to some of the visiting Maori from Rotorua who were there, with their club, for a Country and Western gig at the RSA. A storm was coming in and the bus was pretty shaken by the wind through the night, ours being the only vehicle parked there. However on Monday night we had the company of 4 other motorhomes.

On Monday itself it was still blowing a bit but the sun was shining and we had a round of golf out at Ahipara, the first nine holes for me producing a score I never want to remember but the second nine being much better. We have played on it before, about 6 years ago, and enjoy the course with its good views out to the rolling surf which has one of the best left-hand surf breaks in the world and is a pretty popular place for surfers to come. I found that the host of the bunkers on the course are deep and take a bit of getting out of. Len didn't go into any so his score, though not great, was steadier than mine!

After golf we had a drive along the Foreshore Road which heads towards Shipwreck Bay but turned around once the road became narrow and unsealed. Back in Kaitaia on Tuesday morning we both had haircuts at Pixies (only $25 for the 2 of us and I think they look OK!?) and then went to the Visitor Centre which must have one of the grandest foyers in any town. It is the entry point for the I-site, library, cafe and museum and is beautiful with the seabirds in the sky and wonderful poles carved by Maori craftsmen.

Taupo Bay

It was nice to see blue sky and sun again as we headed from the Whangaroa Golf Course to Taupo Bay with a sidestep back to Mangonui, the quaint little historic village on the seaside at the harbour entrance, for some groceries and a meander around the historic walkway. A pretty little place which has lots of vistors passing through and seemingly particularly enjoying the fresh fish at the Mangonui Fish Shop by the wharf.

We then drove out to Hihi another pretty little popular holiday place with a mixture of baches and permanent homes and a camp ground nestled between 2 bays. Taupo Bay was our next destination - one we had been looking forward to as we were catching up with our friends Pete and Sue, from Tauranga, who have a family bach there right on the beach of the very beautiful deep bay where the surf rolls in and there is good fishing.

You did what Pete?!

We arrived mid-afternoon and Pete and Sue were already there with the kayaks waiting on the seaside front lawn and the boat out the back. The day was still glorious and the sea was flat and calm just like an infinty pool which we were told was unusual. We had a wander along the beach with them and around some of the streets, it being quite quiet at this time of the year with there not being a very big percentage of permanent residents. Sue and Pete's friends from Kerikeri, Larry and Sue, who also have a lovely holiday house at Taupo Bay joined us for dinner and more than a few laughs but we weren't too late retiring to bed so we could be up early the next day.The forecast for Saturday was good so we were looking forward to fishing and using the kayaks.

Life's a bach!

But, come morning, alas!!! The wind was up, the sea rough, the overhead sky a mixture of grey and black and the rain a steady downpour! The bad weather had arrived a day early! Fishing and kayaking was out so instead P&S took us for a drive to see some of the scenery we had missed which was great as we now have an even better picture of the area. We were interested to see the large subdivided area in the hills on the way to Mangonui with the massive olive plantings around as well as the Butterfish Estate with its new houses and vineyard - a private road I believe beyond the attractive entry way but no bother to Pete!
After a quick visit to the old sawmilling area of Totara North on the harbour we headed for Mahinepua where we were hoping to do the 2 hour return walk out to the point with its wonderful vistas if the rain had subsided by then. But no, it seemed a better option to stay warm and dry in the car and forego what would have been a foggy view!

Once back at the bach it was an afternoon of reading and games - Sue now knows how to play Sequence and Pete has brushed up on his sleeping skills. And it was a yummy roast lamb dinner!

Houhoura Heads Part 2

Wednesday we crossed the estuary (up to our thighs) and walked to the harbour entrance in search of the big snapper. It was cold and windy and the black clouds were rolling speedily towards us so after about an hour of trying to keep warm and only seeing Len catch a little kahawai for bait I decided to head home to the bus. Len wasn't far behind and was drenched with rain by the time he was halfway back.

Camera angle makes fish look small!

The rest of the day was only suitable for reading and a very long game of 500. I was pleased I had done a big wash on Tuesday as it had dried nicely in the sun and wind.
Yesterday it was time to move on though we had thoroughly enjoyed our quiet late autumn 4 night stay at the Houhora Heads Holiday Park which nestles in beside the historic Wagener Park and Subritzky homestead which was built in 1862. We are not going any further north as we went to Cape Reinga and did the bus trip down ninety mile beach 5-6 years ago and can remember it reasonably well.
The people we have met up here have all been very friendly and we have found amazing bargains in the fruit stalls on the side of the road, the best being the bag of 6 avocados for $2 as at the moment in the shops up here they are around the $3 mark EACH. Yesterday we also bought a big bag of nice mandarins for $5.

The bargain of the week!

From Houhora we retraced our steps back to Whangaroa Golf Club.
We enjoyed the course and I got my money's worth by hitting the ball lots of times which is the norm fot me lately! It's hilly with curves, trees, streams, long wooden bridges and flat, kind bunkers. The most difficult tee-off for ladies was one over 2 streams and too narrow a strip between to even think of laying-up. By a miracle my ball flew into the far bank with enough velocity to skip up and onto the fairway. Len's tee was much further back but of course he cleared both streams easily. We were caught by a squally shower on the 14th and having no players in front or behind were able to shelter under the trees for a while. There had been big black clouds racing overhead all day but just brief strong showers occasionally so we were very lucky to just get the one.

Our pleasant night stop

Aterwards we enjoyed having a craic at the 19th with 7-8 fellows who had played in the scramble earlier, one of the men who owns Doubtless Bay Lodge, having been a member at our club, Omanu, before he moved north 9 years ago. The club only has about 200 members but the course is very well maintained and they have a new clubhouse with lovely amenities. We were made very welcome to stay the night and they left the amenities open for us all night even though we didn't need to use them once showered after the game.

Today, Friday, is lovely and sunny with wispy white clouds and we are about to set to Mangonui for some groceries before heading to Taupo Bay, which is in Whangaroa Bay, to meet up with Pete & Sue at their bach. We're told cellphone and internet coverage is sparse out there but at least I am up to date with the blog now!

Houhoura Heads

We arrived at Houhora Heads later on Sunday afternoon after sightseeing around the Karikari Peninsula. The Wagener Holiday Park is listed as No 3 of NZ's Top 10 "Classic" campgrounds by the NZ Herald being nestled on the edge of the Houhora Harbour where we have views out over the harbour, river estuary and Mount Camel. A lovely spot even though you can only walk to the ocean beach at low tide and then it's a wade through the river mouth. They have 120 sites here quite a lot of them having unoccupied static caravans on them many with their own attached permanent "awnings". We thought we were the only ones here until we saw an older couple who had just come back in with their fishing boat today and a friend of theirs who lives here permanently. Apparently this is the first quiet month at the camp which is owned by the council but leased out. The current managers have only been here since July, and are moving on again soon, but have made a lot of changes for the better with the facilities all being freshened up and one of the best recycling areas we have seen - very organised with real examples of the items which can be disposed of in the bins displayed above each category.
The kitchen is very small though with only 4 gas rings, one microwave and 2 toasters but it seems that people who come here over summer have been coming for years so they know to bring their own barbies etc. Otherwise they are warned before they come that there might be queues if they need to use the kitchen!
With our NZMCA card it was only $25 a night to stay at this time of the year and we booked in for 2 nights but we are enjoying the spot so much that today we asked to extend our stay for another night. They have offered us 2 more nights for the price of one so we are going to do that!

Stressful or what?!

Len has found his fishing spot on the edge of the harbour and is chuffed - no snapper yet but 2 kahawai yesterday which I made into a nice fish pie ( enough for 2 nights) and 2 more kahawai today, one of which he will use for bait as soon we won't know what to do with them! Fish curry will be next on the menu but how we wish we had a smoker now as we love smoked kahawai although we were pleasantly surprised with how it turned out in the fish pie with it not being anyone's favourite fish, but pretty good still if eaten fresh.

Down in the mouth at the end of the round

We have been so lucky with the weather - the forecast keeps telling us there is going to be a lot of rain or showers but it is sunny most of the day, especially yesterday when it was very warm with no wind, until later in the afternoon which is when we seem to get the showers. Yesterday we played golf at Houhora which is the northernmost course in NZ so we have now played on the most northern and the most southern which was at Stewart Island. The course (9 holer) was in good condition but the grass didn't let the ball roll and if you went off the fairway it could be difficult to move the ball far. Some ponds and a few bunkers but Len didn't lose any balls!
It was warm and sunny until the 18th when the rain started - a bit of a shame to get wet on the last hole as putting wet gear into the boot isn't the greatest. Len had a sad face for both of us, not because of the rain but because neither of us had a good game! Thats golf for you!

Karikari Peninsula Part 2

The Peninsula is a beautiful area with its stretches of beach and little rocky bays. We had intended to stay out at one of the camping grounds for a night or two but we covered the roads more quickly than we anticipated and instead just enjoyed stopping at the different beaches and strolling along them. Our first stop on the western side was Rangiputa - a nice little holiday spot with a sandy safe beach and some nice, probably permanent, houses and other tidy holiday homes. At this time of year there is hardly anyone about - another couple walking down the beach and a young Maori mother working for a company surveying the fishing catches coming in off the boats to see what changes are happening over the years to the number of fish and type being caught and whether it is being affected by the commercial fishing in the area. She was having a quiet day as only one boat had come in when we talked to her later at a bay further round.

T running backwards @ Rangiputa

We took the road out past the distant Lake Rotokawau to the Puwheke Recreation Reserve, an isolated little spot without any houses and just a tiny parking area from where there is a short walk over the dunes to the beach. From here it was back to the main road and on to Matai and Whangatupere Bays, a very pretty area with a nice DOC camp at Matai Bay. We could have easily stayed there, and been the only ones, but it wasn't a good fishing day and after doing the only short walk we felt the need to keep exploring. So it was on to Whatuwhiwhi Bay, down a fairly steepish road to find a nice little secluded holiday place nestled into the hillside above the little bay with the usual boat ramp and also a Top 10 Campground. The next bay coming back towards SH10 is Tokerau Bay, which has a great 18 km long beach and a lot of housing development. There seem to be a lot of sections on the market waiting to be built on. We have been told that the camp there is a good one to stay at but still being in sightseeing mode we continued on, back to the main road away from the Peninsula, and through Awanui to head North.

L @ Whangatupere Bay

Awanui is a bit of a shock to the senses with such economic depression evident - the little uncared for delapidated houses which look like they couldn't possibly be lived in, but are. It makes you want to wave a magic wand to enable people to firstly have jobs and secondly to restore their self esteem of which you can't imagine that they have much of. We stopped for petrol but unfortunately it's not a place to make you want to linger.
At this point we were heading for Houhora Heads, a place that we had stopped at to pick up passengers when we did the bus trip from Awanui up to Cape Reinga and down Ninety Mile Beach when we came up 5 or so years ago. Len loved the look of the area and has wanted to return to spend more time there. I'm still struggling to recall it!!

Karikari Peninsula

On Saturday morning we took the 'Inland Road' onto the Karikari Peninsuka which borders the Western side of Doubtless Bay, Tokarau Beach stretching along the Bay for 19 km. The first road to the right is Ramp Road which several other motorhomers have told us is a favourite place to stay when on the Peninsula so we headed down it expecting to see lots of vehicles parked but there was not one in sight - just lots of no camping and no motorhome signs! On further investigation and after travelling down a rough track above the sand dunes for a few hundred yards we did find 4 buses - 3 occupied by semi-permaments and one just about to leave which belonged to Ann and Graeme, a couple from Waihi, who were in our Happy Hour group at the NZMCA Manganese Point Camp out of Whangarei. They had spent 3 nights there but had to leave to get some repairs done in Whangarei. It seems that everyone just ignores the old "No Motorhomes" signs and it's not policed.

So we can't say "we didn't know your honour"

So after settling ourselves onto a reasonably flat site we walked a short distance inland to have a paddle in Rotopokaka Lake, known to everybody, including the locals, as Coca-cola Lake because the colour around the edges is exactly the same colour as coke although, because the sun was shining, the middle was a nice dark blue. We had been told that the water is great for washing your clothes as it takes all the stains out but we didn't test it out!

2 feet short of the cola line!

However on Sunday morning we did try swivelling our hips for pipis in the water at low tide a km or 2 down the beach as we had also been told about the great pipi bed and could see masses of opened shells. However we had no luck! The 'pipi twist' was more difficult than normal as well as rather than digging into sand there seemed to be a big depth of broken shells to get through - I guess that's why we didn't find any live ones!

It was too windy and rough to try fishing but Len enjoyed watching the couple from the neighbouring bus kite-fishing which involves using a kite (it was a good strong westerly wind) to take out the line which had 5 hooks on it. We saw them put it out 3 times but they weren't able to catch any fish.

Whangaroa, Kaeo & Taipa

Thursday was another beautiful day at Tauranga Bay - just like summer even though we are only 2 weeks short of winter. Len enjoyed fishing peacefully with his shirt off until he suddenly got a shark (so the neighbour who saw it said) on his his line. Then it was all go as he followed the shark along the beach trying to gradually reel it in. After some time the shark won, hooks, line and sinker!
There was only one fish, a kahawai, caught between the 5 or so fishermen all day. Even Ross who put his long line out twice caught nothing but weed, so Len was pleased that he at least had a little bit of action with the shark.

Relaxed pre "Jaws"

On Friday the first of the predicted big rain came in with the forecast telling us it is going to be wet for 5 or so days. It seemed a good time to move on after having 3 lovely days and nights at Tauranga Bay so we drove around to the little fishing village of Whangaroa where it was easy to catch drinking water very quickly from our roof as we gazed over the moored boats in the misty bay.

Fresh water straight from the gutter - mmmmm!

We didn't fill up our fresh water tank at the camping ground as it came out the creek and had to be boiled before use. Not wanting to pollute our tank we decided to try and find water elsewhere even though our tank was getting low. After visiting the 4 Square in Kaeo we headed 5 km south to a POP listed in our book as having power and water. After going through the farm gate and down a rather muddy drive to 2 houses we were greeted by 2 barking dogs owned by the neighbour, one of which looked particularly menacing so it was with caution that I left the bus to talk to the lady owner who was yelling at the dog. Even though there was still an NZMCA sign on the gate she thought it wasn't a POP anymore as the owners were away and just their son, who was at work, was living there. After finding out that we were short of water she invited us to fill up from the nearby POP owners tap saying the water was really nice so we did just that before we drove off although we did feel rather cheeky!
The next POP in Kaeo that we thought we might stay at also no longer exists - there is now a big building on the property - so we set off north again this time heading to a POP at Taipa which had been recommended to us and what a delightful spot it is, in Fred and Dorothy's garden right on the edge of the river estuary and a 2 minute walk to the little village. F & D happened to be away for the weekend but the neighbours, Yvonne and Keith, made us welcome and took our overnight payment of $11, which included power, to pass on to them.

Taipa POP stop

So far today the weather is a little brighter with patches of blue sky and sunshine to be seen between the odd shower although it is quite windy. We are now about to explore the lovely Karikari Peninsula which stretches along the western side of Doubtless Bay which was apparently named after Captain Cook sailed into the Bay and wryly said " This is doubtless a bay".
It's a such a picturesque part of NZ that you can understand why there seem to be quite a lot of retirees coming to the area and newer houses as a result.

Tauranga Bay

After retracing our steps we soon found pretty Te Ngaere Bay, where we had been told that it would be OK to park on the roadside there in front of the holiday houses but given that there were "no motorhomes and no camping signs" along the beach edge we decided to travel on further to Tauranga Bay Holiday Park which is at the southern tip of the Whangaroa Harbour and what a beautiful spot it is! It's owned by Eric Rush's (of All Black fame) family and we are parked right on the beachfront with about 10 other vans, the high tide waves crashing just a few feet from us as I write this and great views along the rugged coast and out to Stephenson Island.

Did that tip move?

Len got the surfcasting rod out soon after we got here later yesterday afternoon and joined about 5 other fisherman spread out along the beach. Ross, from Waihi, who is in the bus next to us and spends about 4 months here each winter has a motorised longline, with 35 hooks, which goes out a long way. Len, wait for it(!), was chuffed to catch 5 kahawai, 2 of them at the same time, on his rod and was expecting Ross to pull in lots of fish on his longline but he only got one! Unbelievable really. I have say though that all the fish ( including Ross's) were small but the 3 biggest are going to provide good bait for todays fishing although the fishing calendar tells us that tomorrow evening will be the best time. I'll keep you posted! Len and Ross are both going out now to try their luck again, both with surfcasters, but the sea looks pretty rough and there is quite a lot of weed about.

Sunset & still catching!

Kerikeri to Matauri Bay

We stayed 2 further nights at the Kerikeri RSA where, especially on the 2nd night it looked as though there was a motorhome convention being held there with about 10, mostly biggish buses or motorhomes, being parked up. We have to wonder if the RSA members will get a bit annoyed with all the motorhomes taking up parking spaces but I guess most of the visitors spend some money over the bar and in the restaurant so that is extra turnover for the club. Maybe they will eventually need to restrict the number of NZMCA vans parking there.
On Monday we intended to drive out to the Kerikeri Inlet but one of our neighbours said there wasn't much to see out there and suggested that we go to Opito Bay instead which is what we did. It's a beautiful little bay round towards the north-eastern tip of the Kerikeri Inlet and it looked as though there would be good fishing around the rocks which were accessible at low tide so we set ourselves up there for a couple of hours - plenty of nibbles and very relaxing but no dinner!

The hunter gatherer's woman at the fishing spot!

Tuesday morning was washing day for us at the Kerikeri Laundrette which is by far the busiest laundrette we have seen on our travels. They have a contract with one of the residential care homes and lots of locals and visitors use it as well with them being open 365 days of the year. The owner was very friendly and chatty and was happy for us to charge up our tablet there and I was happy to give her some advice for her sore shoulder and foot!
Then we were on the road again, heading north out towards the coast, towards Matauri Bay our first detour being up the gravel road signed Kauri Cliffs as we were interested to have a peek at the exclusive, very expensive Golf Club there. However all we could find was a locked gate with a security intercom unit beside. We couldn't even get a glimpse of the course and knew we would probably be turned down if we used the intercom to ask for a viewing so it was turn around time!

As close as we got!

Matauri Bay is yet another lovely spot with a camping ground right on the waters edge but of course no freedom camping allowed. We walked to the end of the camp ground and up the big hill where there is a memorial to the sinking of the Rainbow Warrior by the French, the ship itself now lying out from the coast here, just beyond the Cavalli Islands. There are good views to be had along the coast and out over the islands although it was a little hazy when we were there.

The view to Matauri Bay from the memorial hill

Coming out of Matauri Bay we intended to continue on to Te Ngaere Bay which is only a few km down the road but the navigator (me!!) missed the right turn and after wondering why it was taking so long to get there as well as thinking that some of the scenery looked familiar we ended up way back at State Highway 10 from whence we had come!! Oh dear!, but it was a nice drive!

Paihia to Kerikeri

On Saturday morning we discovered why there had been so many people milling around in Paihia town as we passed through after golf and why there were so many motorhomes parked in the $1 an hour overnight parking area. It was the weekend for the annual Country Rock festival and on Saturday morning the town was humming with visitors and Country & light Rock entertainers lining the streets, some of the bands and soloists being really good. So we had a lovely morning strolling the streets in the sunshine being entertained! For once we had our timing right for an event - usually we arrive somewhere to find that we have just missed something.

Larger than life great violinist!

It had clouded over and showers were imminent by the time we arrived in Kerikeri and we just happened to be walking past the movie theatre at the same time as the film 'Song For Marion' was starting so in we went. We loved this movie even though the male character was a bit annoying at first - funny bits as well a lot of tear-jerking moments so you need your hanky! I'd say it's a must see.
We stayed the night along the road at the RSA where there were about 4 other motorhomes already parked up - we stayed here again last night and there were about 10! Still a bit of room left for the real RSA members luckily. A lot of them seemed to be friends and had arranged to meet up here. Len is having a chat with some of them now to pick up some tips about where to go further North as we keep being advised about how careful we have to be for our safety with lots of unemployed 'have-nots' about and the Maoris fighting inter-tribally.
Yesterday morning (Sunday and Mother's Day) after getting lovely messages from my children we walked to the Kerikeri Sunday market where there were a few tempting crafty things but I managed to stay strong and stick to the fresh fruit, veges and bread that we had gone for. It was another beautiful day and so we headed for the Golf Course to see what was on - no-one was answering the phone and when we got there a few people were still waiting around for the Pro Shop to open. The course itself seemed quiet so we decided to just head straight on out which was a good move as we missed the later rush. A bad first 9 for me with a better second nine with Len being the other way round. However we loved the course - the fairways and greens were in good condition and the course is well designed - a few hilly fairways but then some flatter ones between to recover, some ponds and lots of bunkers. It was threatening to rain once we got to the 16th but we managed to finish and still be dry until we had our nice shower afterwards.

We then drove out to wander through the old Stone Store and see the Kemp House which happened to be closed by then but we have visited it before - it was a good reminder for Len though as to what it looked like from the outside as one can forget

Whangaruru to Paihia

Peace, tranqility, HOPE!

After leaving our very quiet nice camp at Whangaruru South we drove towards Russell, taking a detour down the road to Bland Bay, a beautiful, big, sheltered bay which is not "Bland" as it's name suggests. Len couldn't resist going fishing off the rocks while we were there - lots of nibbles in the first half hour but nothing brought to the surface. Several boats were launched from the nearby ramp while we were there but none returned so we couldn't see how successful they were.

Going fishing for clues??- don't think so!!

We had a wander around Russell as we ate our icecreams and tried to decide where we would stay the night. We have been there before so didn't feel the need to explore any further. We stopped at a POP about a km short of the car ferry at Okiato which was described as having a large vehicle access but it was just someones front yard and you couldn't swing a cat. We were pleased that there was no-one home as Len did an 8 point turn to get back onto the road! It was only about 5.00pm so we continued on down the road to the ferry terminal where we were able to go straight on to the waiting ferry which goes continuously back and forward across the harbour to Opua.

Yet another quiet spot by the water!

Once across it was a short drive up the road to the Paihia Beachside Holiday Park - a lovely little spot on the waterfront where there are nice cabins and about 8-9 other motorhomes parked by the end of the evening - mostly tourists. In the morning we did part of the Opua coastal walk which runs through the camp and takes you right into Paihia. Waitangi Golf Club was the next port of call, really just to enquire when would be a good time to play, but as there was a "space" right at that time we teamed up with Darcy, a newcomer to the club, for a round.
He was good company and despite being deluged by rain between the 9th and the 15th we enjoyed the course with its lovely views out over the sea although the second nine I found rather hilly and strenuous. Len was playing pretty well for not knowing the course although we did play on it about 5 years ago when we were first starting the crazily testing game.

After golf we returned to the Beachside Holiday Park where I had great delight in cooking my roast veges (to go with our hot rotisseried Countdown chicken) in the camp oven which I could get hotter than my gas one.

Whangaruru South beach

The rain eased off a bit as we did a little tiki-touring around the coastline on our way to Tutukaka, to Church, Kowharewa and Pacific Bays before continuing on to Tutukaka itself which I remember well from our last visit - lots of yachts parked in the marina but very quiet at this time of the year with hardly a soul about. We saw 2 moving cars but no people! After having a cup of coffee in the car park we drove on past Matapouri, Woolleys Bay and Sandy Bay, Len thinking that he might try a spot of fishing at one of these spots but the weather wasn't the best, the sea rough and the tide was wrong so on we went to Hikurangi even though these are all beautiful coastal beaches. We drove into the golf course which was very wet with the rain still falling lightly and of course it was deserted. The course, an 18 holer, is one of those set in the hills with the fairways mostly sloping sideways -not good Feng Shui for me and hard for the golf shots. We didn't feel the urge to stay around sad little Hikurangi for the weather to clear.

Prime spot on an empty camp site!

Senior moment - can't remember where I parked mine!

We decided to take the Russell Road towards Russell, a quiet drive through the hills and bush, reminiscent of the Coromandel road, to Oakura, a lovely spot at the entrance toWhangaruru Harbour - very sleepy at this time of the year with all the holiday-makers having gone home and the sole dairy-come-fish & chip shop only being open from Thursday to Sundays in winter.
Round the corner and over the hill is the tiny beach settlement at Whangaruru South where we are parked in the lovely camping ground right on the waters edge - there is no internet or cellphone connection but we have facilties and power, the winter rate for us being $30 a night. We are the only vehicle in the camping ground - there is a motorhome parked up by the cabins but it looks like the man might be working here doing some renovations.

Strolling along Whangaruru beach

When we arrived, about 4.00pm, there was a slight break in the weather so we walked north along the beach as far as we could past a lot of very respectable beach houses and baches which are only accessible from the road we came down. Hence their access is along the beach which means they are probably cut off at high tide unless they don't mind the salt water on their vehicle - that's what it looks like to us anyway! Most of the houses seem to be closed up at the moment everyone having gone home now the school holidays are over.
The exciting news of the day, or rather night, is that after we got back from our walk, at dusk and just before high tide Len took his fishing rod down to the beach at about the same time that the rain started pouring down and the wind was very strong. I was expecting him to return in no time, but no - the fish were biting and he came back soaking wet in the dark proudly holding 2 fish caught on his just-bought Bonito bait - a kahawai and a snapper (schnapper if you want to be politically correct!)! They're not the biggest ones we've seen but his luck has begun! There'll be no stopping him now!
We had a wild night weatherwise with rain and strong winds. Today, Thursday, is a little brighter but still windy with fast moving clouds and showers predicted. We are going to find another fishing spot or 2 as we wend our way towards Russell.

Ngunguru

What a brilliant sunny day we had yesterday in Ngunguru - blue sky again and hot so our 2 loads of washing are beautifully dry. We have stayed 2 nights at an LCP - like a POP with all the amenities and space for 4-5 vans in the front yard of Georgina and Erics house. There is a power supply to each site, water and a shower and toilet that we can use all for $10 a night and also a washing machine for $3.50 a load. We are the only ones here apart from their daughter who is living in a bus on site. Eric has been so generous giving us a lettuce and rhubarb from his wonderful vege garden and some lovely schnapper from his freezer that he caught recently. He also offered us a pumpkin but I had just bought one so had no need.

No. 1 spot in Eric & Georgina's front garden

Yesterday after getting the washing out on the vast expanse of line Len and I drove round the corner to the Ngunguru 9 hole golf club where we played 18 holes on their flat course which was made more challenging by several of the tees being up on high ground with lines of trees to drive through and maybe ditches or a pond in front. Also 2 of the fairways had a line of mangroves with underlying mud right across the fairways where a ladies tee-off ball would be wanting to land or pass through so it was a choice to either lay-up or take a deep breath and take on the mangroves - I found that the mangroves always win so laying up is the best option! Len and I drew for our golf challenge - I'm allowed more shots according to our handicaps - and I was happy with my round of 100 but it is classified as an easy course so my score probably wasn't that great.
After the golf and dashing back to the LCP to get all the washing off the line Len went out with Eric and the other "Old Farts", as they call themselves, for a round of 9 holes in their weekly competition but didn't do well enough to win a prize although all those playing were given a golf ball which will be handy as Len has lost quite a few of his good ones lately! After a couple of beers in the clubrooms Eric invited us to join him and his friend, Brownie, into his "back shed" for a tipple of Ngunguru Wine which turned out to be his own 8 year old brew from his prolific grapes - nice once you adapted to the taste and I suspect very potent!
After lots of laughs it was back to the bus to cook up all the food he had provided for our dinner!

This morning it was raining cats and dogs and blowing but it was time for us to move on from our hospitable hosts after filling up with water and then visiting the dump station further round the bay.

The dirty job at the dump station!

Whangarei continued

Well it's now Tuesday 7th May and we spent the night at a LCP (low cost parking for NZMCA members) near the river estuary in Ngunguru which is not much over 20 km out of Whangarei. Tutukaka our next stop on the coast is just around the corner. On the way here we were reminded of the English countryside as we drove past a lot of lovely dry stone walling on the farms, something you seldom see in NZ. It was pouring with rain when we arrived yesterday so we haven't been out to explore yet, instead playing a few games to keep the cabin fever at bay! However it is bright and sunny today and the washing is on, ready to hang out before we tootle round to the 9 hole golf course down the road.

We spent 2 extra days in Whangarei from what we had planned as our Samsung tablet, on which we are ultra-dependent for all our communications, googling and blog, suddenly died -just couldn't get it to switch on even with trying to recharge it on the mains at the golf club so we had to hang around until Monday to get a computer whizz to look at it which was duly done at Cocurullo Ltd. They had to open it up to give the battery a big boost charge and then it was all sweet!

Shot planning complete - next the real thing!

On Friday we played golf at Whangarei Mt Denby golf course which was in the same direction we were heading. We enjoyed the interesting, somewhat hilly course with a bushy path or two between holes and a par 3 that had a big lake in front of the green as well as bunkers - a bit of a
challenge but I managed to stay teetering on the edge of a bunker while Len's plopped beautifully into the edge of the lake. Fairways and greens were all in pretty good condition considering the long dry spell we have had up to now.

It was cloudy overhead but the rain held off until after we had played although it continued all that night and the next day. We stayed both Friday and Saturday nights at the golf club who welcome all NZMCA members. There was one other van there on Friday night and they asked us if they could park as close as possible to us for security reasons. I think they had just heard about a van that was broken into and hijacked at Whangarei and were extra worried. Anyway, it turned out that Barbara was born in Whitehaven and went to Grammar School there! They have now lived in NZ for about 30 years.

Sunday was a little brighter but there was still the odd shower about as we did a wander through town and down to the rivers edge where we had a coffee and treat at the very popular Mokaba Cafe where all the food looked, and was, delicious. In the afternoon we went to our 3rd movie in a year seeing The Croods in 3D - we look more 'down and out' these days and the nice man on the till let Len in as a Senior as well and gave us free 3D glasses but we did pay for our ice-creams. We enjoyed the light movie although it took me a little while to get used to all the animated violence!

Sunday night we returned to the RSA for our 3rd night non-consecutive - we had a nice corner spot and it is so handy to town.

The Pines Golf Course & Whangarei continued

On Thursday we only had to drive down the hill from the peaceful (apart from the neighbours barking dogs) NZMCA park to the picturesque Pines Golf Club at Parua Bay for a game. This is a great course with its wonderful views of the harbour and Whangarei Heads, streams, tidal ponds, mangroves with herons and many pukeko, tree-studded fairways and ----drains. The fairways are green and in good condition with the greens just right - not too fast and not too slow. I must have been too busy admiring the views rather than concentrating on my shots though as my score didn't reflect my enjoyment despite not doing many putts. I can recommend playing on this course though if you're up this way - the green fees are only $25 for affiliated players which is much better value than the rough Waipu course at $40.

Across the golf course and the bay to Manaia

The only downside for us was that there were no showers and after each of us having one in the bus we have run out of water for the first time since being on the road. We've used up our big freshwater bottle as well so only have our little drink bottles left until we dump our grey waste and hopefully fill up with fresh water at Caltex which we have been told you can do if you spend more than $50.

Last night we had a nice creamy Kilkenny for Len and a wine for me at McMorrisseys Irish Pub which has lots of character and a convivial feel and is owned by a friend's sister and brother-in-law. This gave us the yearning for a curry so we wandered down the road to the Shiraz Indian Restaurant, a popular place and rightly so. We really enjoyed both our curries - the best we have had for a while. Then it was a short walk back to the RSA where we again parked for the night - it is so handy to town and both times we have been the only ones here.
From here we are heading around the Tutukaka Coast - the forecast is for showers today and rain for at least the next 2 days. However we have been so fortunate with the weather so far and who would know it wasn't still summer! There may not be much reception around the next part of the trip so the blog might not get published for a few days.

Whangarei Heads

After climbing Mount Manaia we drove out further along the pictureque heads road to the Ocean Beach with its beautiful views - a bit of a walk from the carpark which isn't that big compared with all the parking that we have at the Mount but I guess our beach is much much longer. I can imagine that it becomes jam-packed in summer.
We stayed the night in the carpark where one other stationwagon was parked up for the night. Len tried a little surfcasting on the nice beach down by the rocks at dusk but returned empty handed so it was lucky that I already had the Thai Chicken Curry simmering away when he returned!

The hopeful baiting up stage!

Wednesday morning we drove back to the Heads Road and went as far as we could past Urquharts Bay to Woolshed Bay where there is a tiny parking area leading to a range of walkways crisscrossing the rugged Bream Head Scenic Reserve. We did the under 2 hour loop track around Busby Head which goes through farmland with grazing cattle past the defence gun emplacements from World War 2. A little sidetrack through bush up to the furtherest point on the headland gives great views out over the Pacific, its islands and the coast both ways. Then its a mixture of bush and farmland as you head around to Smugglers Bay - and idyllic white sandy, pohutukawa fringed beach from where you can head over the paddocks for a 15 minute walk back to the carpark. We are still so lucky with the weather - every day is still like summer with temperatures of about 22 degrees and it is now the 1st of May!

Smugglers Bay and Busby Head

On our way back along the Heads Road to the city of Whangarei we stopped at McLeod Bay where Len walked around a little further to fish off the floating pontoon with Bob, a semi-retired taxi driver, his grandson and 2-3 other young lads. He had been told it was a good fishing spot but no bites of significance were to be had. I even relinquished my deck chair on the bank of the bay for a while to try holding the rod to bring it some luck but that didn't work either!

Swimming in McLeods Bay

However it was hot work out there relaxing in the sun so we had a lovely swim in the bay afterwards - the water is still a nice temperature, the only downside being that our feet got rather ripped trying to get into deeper water over the sharp shell-encrusted rocks - very painful and I'm still digging out tiny bits of rock from my sole but I'm winning and can walk without limping today. The swim however was refreshing and great and worth it! Fancy still being able to swim in May!!

From there we drove to the NZMCA Park, just down the road, at the very end of Manganese Point with its beautiful views out over the harbour. Just a small parking area which would fit only 8 vehicles in - we were the 5th to arrive and 2 others came in after us. It was Happy Hour outside at 5.00 even though it got really cold when the sun dropped quickly behind the hill. We picked up a few tips from the others for our trip further north which is always handy.

Waipu Golf Club to Whangarei

After sleeping the night at the Waipu Golf Club for an extra $5 on top of our green fees of $40 each (we could have played on a Thursday for $10 but our schedule is not in sync yet for the cheap golfing days!), we headed out on the course fairly early on Monday. No-one told us before we started that the fertiliser truck was coming in to spray all the course with lime and by the second hole we were surrounded by clouds of fertiliser and had to be careful not to breathe too much in! It was very off-putting to say the least although we could still admire the beautiful setting of the links course overlooking the sea. The course itself was very rough on the fairways but better on the greens which were still covered in dew when we started. There were quite a few bunkers which we managed to stay out of but I had trouble off the fairways as the grass was very grippy.

It  was mainly flat, the only hill I really noticed being the one coming up to the 18th green.

Len had a good round but I started off very poorly having allowd the fertiliser to totally put me off my game so even my improved 2nd nine wasn't good enough to even things out.

Teed off at Waipu!

It was very nice to have a shower afterwards to remove all the lime from our clothing and legs but it'a bit hard to clean it off the golf bag. I can't believe we paid as much as we did considering the conditions! $15 country courses here we come!!
However, having said all that, the ladies in the Pro shop and the other people we met while we stayed at the course were very friendly and made us feel totally at home.
From the golf course we drove to Ruakaka Beach where we sat for a while admiring the views out to sea and up the coast to Marsden Point and the Whangarei Heads before continuing on to Marsden Point itself. For our overseas readers this is where the Oil Refinery plant is, all of NZs petrol and oil supplies coming from here. We went to the visitors centre and Len went to a presentation on the history of the plant which began operating in 1964.

We then continued on around the scenic route back onto the very busy main highway (oh for the quiet South Island roads!!) to Whangarei where we stayed the night at the RSA Club which is right in the centre of town so easy to have a wander through before we had dinner. We slept well with the town clock which chimed every half hour not really disturbing us.

Manaia bottom, then top -

Today after dumping and replenishing our gas bottle we did the nice drive out to the Whangarei Heads stopping on the way for lunch on the harbours edge before tackling the Mount Manaia walk which is 460 metres high and normally takes about an hour to climb but with a bit of running up some of the many steps, through the bush, to make up for photo stops we got to the top in about 45 minutes. The wind was blowing quite strongly at the top but the views out over the harbour and sea are amazing and certainly worth the effort!